
Facing the rhino
Imagine standing face-to-face with the majestic one-horned rhino as it grazes gracefully among the tall elephant grass. Welcome to Kaziranga National Park and Tiger Reserve, one of the last refuges of the one-horned rhinoceros in Assam, India.

During our Assam tour, we explored Pobitora and Kaziranga wildlife sanctuaries, both home to a thriving population of Indian one-horned rhinos. Welcome to the kingdom of the rhino, the proud abode of Assam’s state animal. With a thriving population of these majestic creatures, Kaziranga stands as their ultimate sanctuary.
We started our journey from Guwahati, the state capital, and headed first to Pobitora, a wildlife sanctuary nestled along the banks of the mighty Brahmaputra.
We joined a thrilling jeep safari operated by the Assam Forest Department. Though smaller than Kaziranga, Pobitora boasts the world’s highest rhino density, ensuring an unforgettable sighting. These majestic creatures roam freely, grazing leisurely on the tall, lush grass nourished by the Brahmaputra’s waters.
There is a dolphin viewing point in Pobitora, but be sure to check the season. Local guides recommend visiting after October, post-monsoon, for the best chance to spot these elusive creatures. Since we traveled in summer, the low water levels had already pushed the dolphins deeper into the river.



Next, we explored the famous Kaziranga National Park. While most visitors recognize it for its rhinos, few realize that it also serves as a tiger reserve and a key site for Project Tiger. In 2006, authorities designated it as a tiger reserve after the tiger population increased. As in every tiger reserve, spotting the elusive big cat depends on luck. One group from our tour was lucky enough to catch a fleeting glimpse of India’s national animal.
Visitors to Kaziranga can choose between two safari options: the elephant safari and the jeep safari. Elephants carry two to four people and offer a shorter yet more immersive experience, venturing into marshes and grasslands where jeeps cannot go. Unlike jeeps, which follow designated roads, elephants navigate diverse terrains, providing a closer look at wildlife. The initial movements may feel jerky, almost as if you might topple over, but once you adjust, the elephant ride becomes an unforgettable adventure.


Rhinos roam everywhere, either as solitary wanderers or mothers with their young. After a while, you might start seeing them as casually as village buffaloes wallowing in a pond.
During both the jeep and elephant safaris, we spotted bison, gaur, wild elephants, tortoises, and various species of deer.
It’s not just the vast greenery and fresh air that leave you mesmerized. In the expansive grasslands, elephants gather in large numbers, creating a breathtaking sight—like a grand conference of elephants.

Kaziranga is more than just a rhino haven; it also shelters Indian gaur, elephants, bison, jackals, spotted deer, swamp deer, water buffalo, and diverse bird species. During our visit, we spotted Siberian cranes and several other migratory birds, adding to the park’s rich wildlife experience.


Kaziranga National Park features a mixed tropical deciduous forest, blending vast grasslands and dense woodlands. Common trees include the cotton tree and elephant apple tree. The park is also home to expansive grasslands with tall reeds, known as elephant grass, which provide a natural habitat for wildlife.
About rhinos
Rhinoceroses are large, thick-skinned herbivorous mammals. The name ‘rhinoceros’ comes from the Greek words rhinos (nose) and keras (horn). Today, five rhino species exist—three in South and Southeast Asia and two in Africa.
The Indian rhinoceros stands out with its single horn, while African rhinos have two. Poachers once hunted them relentlessly due to the high demand for their horns. Made of keratin—the same protein as human hair and nails—the horns hold no medicinal value, despite widespread myths. This false belief led to mass killings, pushing them toward extinction.
Thanks to conservation efforts by the government, locals, and forest workers, the Indian rhino population has made a remarkable recovery. Today, Kaziranga National Park is home to around 2,200 rhinos. To protect them, Kaziranga’s forest guards carry machine guns and take a zero-tolerance approach toward poachers.
The other parks where one-horned rhinos are found in India are:
- Orang National Park, Assam
- Manas National Park, Assam
- Dibru Saikhowa National Park, Assam
- Gorumara National Park, West Bengal
- Jaldapara National Park, West Bengal
- Dudhwa National Park, Uttar Pradesh
Chitwan National Park, Parsa National Park, Bardia National Park, Shuklaphanta Wildlife Reserve in Nepal, and Royal Manas National Park in Bhutan are a few of the wildlife sanctuaries that host one-horned rhinos in the Indian subcontinent.
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Kaziranga is from November to April, with winter being the most preferred season. During summer, the landscape dries up, drawing animals toward water bodies, making wildlife sightings easier. After May, the park usually closes for the monsoon season as the Brahmaputra River floods the area.
How to reach
Guwahati serves as the gateway to Northeast India, offering excellent connectivity by road, rail, and air. Lokpriya Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport, located about 20 km from the city, operates flights to and from major cities like Bengaluru. Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary lies around 50 km from Guwahati, with taxis being the preferred mode of transport. From Pobitora, Kaziranga National Park is approximately 150 km away, requiring a scenic 3.5-hour drive.
Safari gates
Kaziranga National Park spans a vast 430 square kilometers and offers entry through four main gates across different ranges: Bagori, Mihimukh, Ghorakati, and Agaratoli.
Timings
- Elephant safari is from 5:30 to 6:30 am, and 6:30 to 7:30 am
- Jeep safari is from 8:00 to 10:00 am and 2:00 pm to 4:00 pm
Pobitora or Kaziranga – Which is better?
If you want a quick wildlife experience and a chance to see one-horned rhinos, Pobitora is ideal due to its proximity to Guwahati. For a longer safari and the opportunity to spot our striped king, the majestic tiger, Kaziranga is the perfect destination.
Nearby attractions
After visiting Pobitora and Kaziranga, you can visit some other nearby attractions. They are Hoollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, Kakochang Falls, Deopahar (an archaeological site), and Addabarie Tea Estate.
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